Blog

Dog escaped from leash and runs away from pet owner. Kid chasing dog lost in park

<h3>Why Yelling ‘Come!’ Won’t Compete With Rabbit Poop</h3>Hey, humans. It’s me—your dog. The one who gives you that “you must be joking” look every time you yell, “Come!” while I’m knee-deep in sniffing something truly life-changing. Look, I know you’re frustrated. You’re probably standing there thinking, “Why won’t this dog just listen to me?!” And honestly? I get it.But here’s the thing: coming when called isn’t some instinctual magic button you press and voilà, here I am. It takes training—and, yeah, I hate to break it to you, but that means you’ve got some work to do.Let’s be real: when I’m out there living my best life, I’m not going to drop everything just because you think I should. You really think you can compete with the smell of rabbit poop? Sorry, but no.If you want me to come when called, you’ve got to make it worth my while. Don’t worry—it’s totally possible to turn me into a recall rockstar. You just need a game plan. So, grab some treats, sit, stay, and let me break it down for you.<figure id="figure-g0ebml5cyym5sc6v58"><img id="g0ebml5cyym5sc6v58" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/645614874/photo/naughty-puppy-runs-away.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=mxYjN9RGS4k8KtyY2vqzr8WCAaEM91hob8_UQ2za-HE=" alt="Naughty Puppy Runs Away" title="Naughty Puppy Runs Away" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/645614874/photo/naughty-puppy-runs-away.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=mxYjN9RGS4k8KtyY2vqzr8WCAaEM91hob8_UQ2za-HE=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"></figure><h3>Tip 1: Stop Making ‘Come’ a Buzzkill</h3>Here’s the real problem. You only yell “Come!” when it’s time to ruin the fun. I’m rolling in glorious stink? “Come!” I’m making a new best friend at the park? “Come!” Basically, you’ve turned it into a buzzkill word that signals the party’s over.Why would I want to run to you if it always means leaving the good stuff behind? That’s like someone shouting, “Time to leave!” when you’ve just hit the dessert table at a party. No thanks.Instead, make “Come!” the most exciting thing I hear all day. Call me over, hand me a chunk of cheese, or bust out a game of tug. Here’s the pro move: after rewarding me, let me go back to whatever fun I was having. That way, I start thinking, “Wait, coming to them doesn’t end the fun—it adds to it!”When “Come!” doesn’t always mean it’s time to leash up and head home, I’ll actually want to listen to you. Trust me, this tweak changes everything.<span style="font-family: var(--head-fontFamily); font-size: calc(28px * var(--head-fontSize, 1)); font-style: var(--head-fontStyle, normal); font-weight: var(--head-fontWeight, 500); background-color: rgba(249,250,251,var(--tw-bg-opacity));" data-mce-style="font-family: var(--head-fontFamily); font-size: calc(28px * var(--head-fontSize, 1)); font-style: var(--head-fontStyle, normal); font-weight: var(--head-fontWeight, 500); background-color: rgba(249,250,251,var(--tw-bg-opacity));">Tip 2: Start Small, Like Really SmallListen, if you’re standing across the dog park with 20 dogs, three squirrels, and a frisbee flying overhead, and you expect me to run straight to you? Dream on. That’s like asking someone to belt out a karaoke song on stage when they’ve only ever sung in the shower. Not happening.If you want me to learn this “Come!” thing, we’ve got to start small. Forget the park chaos for now. Begin in a quiet, low-distraction area—you know, that spot where you park yourself for hours staring at the glowing screen that talks to you. Call me from the couch to the coffee table. Yep, it’s a short distance, but this is where I figure out that coming to you actually pays off.When I do come, don’t just shrug it off. Make it worth my while. Toss me a piece of food and add a little excitement into the mix. Celebrate my success so I know I made the right call. Once I’ve got Couch-to-Coffee-Table Recall nailed, we can take it up a notch. But until then, leave the dog park chaos for another day.<figure id="figure-ask1ihkcf75m5se8o25"><img id="ask1ihkcf75m5se8o25" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1409039734/photo/african-american-woman-is-playing-with-her-french-bulldog-puppy-while-walking-in-the-dog-park.jpg?b=1&s=2048x2048&w=0&k=20&c=Lw_fm1B71i_NYpgTpIMOUQ4dtJuzqepJbfmXfGmp-H8=" alt="Unrecognizable man standing in training with his Labrador retriever staring at his hands full of treats." title="Unrecognizable man standing in training with his Labrador retriever staring at his hands full of treats." class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionX="undefined" data-positionY="undefined" data-fullWidth="false"/></figure><h3>Tip 3: Building Recall, One Kibble at a Time</h3>Here’s where we really lay the groundwork. Kibble is the perfect tool to start teaching recall because it’s consistent, practical, and easy to use. Every time you reward me with kibble for coming, you’re creating a reinforcement history. That’s just a fancy way of saying, “Every time I come when called, something good happens!”When we’re practicing in calm, controlled environments, kibble works great. But if we’re out somewhere with distractions—like squirrels doing backflips—you’ll want to up the ante. Adding higher-value rewards, like cheese or chicken, for tougher situations reminds me that no matter what’s going on, you’re always the better option.It’s all about progression: kibble in the backyard, something more exciting at the park. Treat me like a rockstar when I come running, and I’ll keep choosing you over mud puddles and rabbit poop every time.<span style="font-family: var(--head-fontFamily); font-size: calc(28px * var(--head-fontSize, 1)); font-style: var(--head-fontStyle, normal); font-weight: var(--head-fontWeight, 500); background-color: rgba(249,250,251,var(--tw-bg-opacity));" data-mce-style="font-family: var(--head-fontFamily); font-size: calc(28px * var(--head-fontSize, 1)); font-style: var(--head-fontStyle, normal); font-weight: var(--head-fontWeight, 500); background-color: rgba(249,250,251,var(--tw-bg-opacity));">Tip 4: Don’t Be a Broken RecordLet’s get one thing straight: yelling “Come! Come! COME!” over and over again isn’t helping. If anything, you’re just teaching me that “Come” means absolutely nothing. It’s like that song on repeat that everyone’s tired of but won’t stop playing.Say it once. Just once. If I don’t respond, don’t stand there shouting like a lunatic—come get me. Yeah, I know that sounds annoying, but if you let me ignore you, I’ll keep doing it. Consistency is key, human.Oh, and timing matters too. If you’re yelling “Come!” while I’m mid-zoomie or chasing a squirrel, good luck. Either wait for me to finish my thing or make it so irresistible that I have no choice but to come sprinting over.<h3>Tip 5: Practice Makes Perfect (But Not in Chaos)</h3>Here’s the thing: you don’t start teaching me recall in the middle of dog park mayhem. That’s like tossing a beginner swimmer into the deep end during a hurricane.Start in calm, distraction-free places, like your backyard. Once I’ve nailed it there, slowly add in distractions. Maybe a squeaky toy. Then a friend. Eventually, work your way up to the holy grail of distractions: squirrels. Think of it like leveling up in a video game—you don’t fight the boss on Day 1.<h3>Tip 6: Make It a Game</h3>Let’s face it—running to you isn’t always as exciting as what I’m already doing. So, make it fun!Try hide-and-seek. Call me and hide behind a couch or tree. When I find you, act like I just discovered buried treasure. Or try running away from me while calling “Come!” Trust me, chasing you is way more fun than being chased.If you’re boring, I’ll find something else to do. But if you’re fun? I’m all in.<h3>Tip 7: Never, Ever Be a Jerk About It</h3>So, I finally leave that glorious patch of smells—or the rabbit poop buffet—and trot over to you, tail wagging, feeling proud of myself. And then… you scold me? Really? That’s your move?If coming to you means getting yelled at, why on earth would I want to do it again? Even if it took me forever, even if I stopped for a quick roll in Eau de Dead Thing, reward me when I show up. Treat me like I just handed you a winning lottery ticket.Save the guilt trips for your human friends. Reward me with treats, praise, or even a quick game if that’s my jam. Make me think, “Coming to you is always worth it!”<h3>Final Thoughts: Let’s Make This Work</h3>Look, I want to come when you call. I really do. But you’ve gotta make it worth my while. Be patient, be consistent, and stop ruining my fun with boring rewards or bad timing.Follow these steps, and I promise I’ll be racing to you in no time. Now, how about a practice round? Call me over, and let’s see if you’ve got the goods. Bacon or bust, human.

7 Recall Tips That Work: Because Yelling ‘Come!’ 20 Times Isn’t a Training Plan

<h3>Because Nothing Says ‘New Friendship’ Like Tangled Leashes and Awkward Sniffing</h3>Hey, humans. Yeah, it’s me—your dog. The one you’re constantly dragging around by the neck like I’m auditioning for The Real Housewives of the Dog Park. Listen, we need to talk.You mean well, I know you do. You think, “Dogs love meeting other dogs, right? Let’s make that happen—on a leash!” But let me tell you something, straight up: this whole ‘dogs should always meet on leash’ thing is a disaster.I don’t say this lightly. I’ve been around the block—literally. And I’ve had enough awkward, tension-filled leash greetings to last a lifetime. So sit, stay, and let me explain why you’ve got this all wrong.<blockquote>“Leash meetings are forced hugs we didn’t ask for.”</blockquote><figure id="figure-pxaow81aogm5qyabpz"><img id="pxaow81aogm5qyabpz" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1485181776/photo/bulldog-on-a-leash-meets-little-black-dog-active-pets-playing-in-urban-setting.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=4EvdFEsL8Wf5xwcUFF1ggoVUwPzZol_uQe2FKnG9lDg=" alt="Bulldog on a leash meets little black dog. Active pets playing in urban setting" title="Bulldog on a leash meets little black dog. Active pets playing in urban setting" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: undefined undefined;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1485181776/photo/bulldog-on-a-leash-meets-little-black-dog-active-pets-playing-in-urban-setting.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=4EvdFEsL8Wf5xwcUFF1ggoVUwPzZol_uQe2FKnG9lDg=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: undefined undefined;"></figure><h3>Leashes: Great for Walks, Terrible for First Impressions</h3>Here’s the deal. I know you use the leash to keep me safe—and honestly, I appreciate it. You’ve seen me eyeing that squirrel across the street. You’ve saved my life. Thanks.But when it comes to meeting other dogs? That leash is the ultimate buzzkill. You’re basically strapping on a “Do Not Be Cool” sign and expecting me to act natural. Spoiler alert: I can’t.See, when we dogs meet, it’s all about the sniff. A little butt action, some side-eye—it’s casual, polite, low-pressure. But when I’m tethered to you, I can’t move like I want to. And worse? You’re holding the leash tight like I’m about to rob a bank. What’s the deal with that?<h3>Why Dogs Dread On-Leash Greetings (and You Should Too)</h3>Here’s what happens every time you let me meet another dog on leash. (And yeah, I’m calling you out because I’ve seen you do this.)1. The Tension TrainwreckYou’re gripping that leash like it’s the last slice of pizza at a party. That tension? It’s not just in your hand—it’s in my brain now. I’m thinking, Why are you so nervous? Is this other dog dangerous? Should I bark? Oh crap, I should totally bark!The other dog feels it, too. Now we’re both tense, barking, lunging, and basically starring in a live-action episode of Dogs Gone Wild.2. The Awkward AngleDogs aren’t meant to meet face-to-face. We like to approach from the side, sniff a butt, maybe drop a play bow if we’re feeling frisky. But you? You’re marching me straight into the other dog’s grill like we’re at a doggy staring contest.You know what staring means in dog language? It means, “I’m gonna mess you up.” So yeah, thanks for that.3. The Leash DanceLeashes get tangled. I trip. The other dog trips. You’re doing this weird shuffle with the other human while both of us dogs are trying to decide if we should fight, play, or just fake an injury to get out of there. It’s chaos.<h3>But What If My Dog Is Friendly?</h3>Oh, the classic line: “It’s okay, my dog is friendly!” Listen, Karen, I know you think you’re helping, but here’s the reality:•Just because I’m friendly doesn’t mean I want to meet every dog I see.•Just because the other dog is friendly doesn’t mean they’re cool with my energy.Sometimes I’m tired. Sometimes I’m cranky. Sometimes I just wanna sniff a bush in peace and not deal with your overenthusiastic golden doodle named Cinnamon. Respect that, okay?<figure id="figure-addtirxxnkm5qzbyh9"><img id="addtirxxnkm5qzbyh9" src="https://cdn.durable.co/blocks/31s5HciyflpYoNRz7NwDypyJ0SVyM0lIiHEH1nFnUG7qyWtKrcqq1mfQmsJo75DS.png" alt="" title="" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://cdn.durable.co/blocks/31s5HciyflpYoNRz7NwDypyJ0SVyM0lIiHEH1nFnUG7qyWtKrcqq1mfQmsJo75DS.png" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"></figure><h3>The Right Way to Let Dogs Meet (Without Turning It Into a Soap Opera)</h3>So, what’s the alternative? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered. Here’s how to help me meet other dogs without turning it into a bad episode of Cesar Millan. 1. Parallel WalksInstead of marching us straight into each other, start with a parallel walk. Keep some distance, let us sniff the air, and get used to each other’s vibes without the pressure of face-to-face contact.2. Off-Leash in a Safe SpaceIf we’re in a secure, enclosed area, drop the leash. Let us greet on our terms. You know, like normal dogs. Just make sure the other dog is cool with it first—consent matters.3. Controlled SniffingGive us space to sniff each other from a distance first. It’s like reading someone’s bio before you decide if you want to hang out.4. Ask for ConsentBefore you let me meet another dog, ask their human if it’s okay. Maybe their dog is nervous. Maybe they’re working on training. Maybe they just don’t wanna deal with my nonsense today—and that’s fine.<h3>Bottom Line: Don’t Be That Human</h3>Look, I know you love me. You want me to have friends. I get it. You see another dog, and you think, “Oh, what a cute little bonding moment this will be!” But trust me, Karen (yeah, I’m calling you Karen today), on-leash greetings are not the way.They’re awkward, stressful, and half the time they make me look like a total jerk when I’m really just standing there thinking, “Wait, what’s happening? Are we cool? Are we fighting? Am I supposed to bark or wag?!” It’s confusing, okay?So next time you see another dog, how about we just keep walking unless we both look chill and ready for a proper introduction? And if you’re unsure, here’s a revolutionary idea: just ask the other human. It’s not rocket science.Thanks for listening, human. Now, how about you make it up to me with some belly rubs, a walk that doesn’t involve social drama, and maybe—just maybe—a slice of that pizza you’re pretending I don’t see? Deal?<h3>Explore our training resources for practical, step-by-step support.</h3> 👉 Grab a copy of my <a data-mce-href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1819149768/dog-training-games-building-food-drive?etsrc=sdt" href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1819149768/dog-training-games-building-food-drive?etsrc=sdt">Building Food Motivation PDF</a> on Etsy to start building your dog’s engagement and focus.👉 Dive into our<a data-mce-href="https://trainingdogsonline.mykajabi.com/offers/hZqAB4c7/checkout?coupon_code=HOLIDAYPROMO" href="https://trainingdogsonline.mykajabi.com/offers/hZqAB4c7/checkout?coupon_code=HOLIDAYPROMO" data-mce-selected="inline-boundary"> Online Course at Training Dogs Online</a>, where we walk you step by step through proven training strategies for real-life success.👉 Curious about who we are?<a data-mce-href="https://trainingdogsonline.ca/about-training-dogs-online" href="https://trainingdogsonline.ca/about-training-dogs-online"> Learn more about us,</a> our philosophy, and why we’re passionate about helping dogs and their owners thrive.-Cher Wood

Why On-Leash Dog Greetings Are Like Bad Tinder Dates: Awkward, Forced, and Never a Good Idea

<h2>Why Does My Dog Chomp on Food Rewards?</h2>Does your dog turn into a mini alligator when it’s time for food rewards? You’re not alone! Chompy behavior when taking food is common, especially in young dogs, highly food-motivated breeds, or dogs who are still learning how to be gentle.The good news? You can fix it! With a little patience and some training tweaks, you can teach your dog to take food gently—without losing a finger in the process.Let’s break this down into three categories:1.How to Prevent Chompy Behavior Before It Starts2.How to Resolve It if Your Dog’s Already a Chomper3.How to Feed Treats Safely with an Open Hand (Like a Horse)<figure id="figure-yiozju59rm5qxfvlp"><img id="yiozju59rm5qxfvlp" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/636051956/photo/close-up-of-a-dog-playing-with-owner.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=sxAn_6yiK_MkK-LuPUy-NBnmRf5Sl-8dOYSDneav7Ws=" alt="Close-up of a dog playing with owner" title="Close-up of a dog playing with owner" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: 50% 85%;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="50%" data-positiony="85%" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/636051956/photo/close-up-of-a-dog-playing-with-owner.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=sxAn_6yiK_MkK-LuPUy-NBnmRf5Sl-8dOYSDneav7Ws=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: 50% 85%;"></figure><h3>How to Prevent Chompy Behavior</h3>If your dog hasn’t developed chompy behavior yet, you’re in the perfect position to teach them how to take food calmly and gently. Prevention is always easier than correction, so here are some tips to get you started:1.Don’t Pull Your Hand Away QuicklyWhen dogs are excited, a fast-moving hand can trigger their chase reflex. If you yank your hand away as they go for the food, they may try to grab it harder and faster next time. Instead, keep your hand steady and calm.2.Deliver the Reward Slowly and DeliberatelyHold the food reward in your fingers and wait for your dog to approach calmly. If they’re too grabby, don’t release the food until they settle down. This helps them associate gentle behavior with getting the reward.3.Use Larger Kibble or TreatsSmall treats can make dogs more frantic to grab at them, especially if they think they might miss out. Using larger pieces of kibble or treats gives them more to focus on and reduces the chances of a chomp.4.Teach a “Take It” CueBefore handing over the food, say “Take it” and wait until your dog pauses or hesitates. This creates a moment of calm before they go for the food. Consistency here is key!5.Feed with an Open Hand (Like a Horse)If your dog has a hard time taking food gently from your fingers, try feeding them from an open palm, just like you’d feed a horse. This technique works well for chompy dogs because it eliminates the “target” of your fingers.<img id="fsq03l2ljvm5qxdpfx" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1188498103/photo/close-up-woman-hand-hand-feeding-horse.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=pBPiV__-otynbhjBn0QooLfj91swwwMJ0jTioduXoW8=" alt="Close up woman hand hand feeding horse." title="Close up woman hand hand feeding horse." class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1188498103/photo/close-up-woman-hand-hand-feeding-horse.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=pBPiV__-otynbhjBn0QooLfj91swwwMJ0jTioduXoW8=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"><h3>How to Resolve Chompy Behavior</h3>If your dog’s already a chomper, don’t worry—it’s fixable! Here’s how to help them learn better manners around food rewards:1.Teach Them to Target the Food GentlyHold a piece of food in your closed fist. Let your dog sniff, lick, or nuzzle your hand. The moment they stop being pushy, open your hand slightly and let them take the treat gently. Over time, this teaches them that calmness gets the reward.2.Practice with Low-Value Treats FirstDogs are often chompiest with high-value food rewards because they’re extra excited. Start with low-value rewards like kibble to practice gentler behavior, and gradually work up to higher-value treats.3.Use a Spoon or Flat SurfaceIf your dog is really struggling to take food gently, feed them off a spoon or flat surface (like a silicone dog training mat). This removes your hand from the equation while you work on their manners.4.Reinforce Calmness at Every StepIf your dog starts to get excited or grabby, take a step back. Only offer the food when they’re calm. Rewarding excitement or pushiness will reinforce the very behavior you’re trying to change.<h3>Why Chompy Behavior Happens</h3>Understanding why dogs get chompy can also help you prevent or resolve it. Some common reasons include:•Excitement or Overstimulation: Dogs may get grabby when they’re overly excited about food.•Hunger or High Food Drive: A hungry dog or one with a strong food motivation may act more frantically.•Reinforced Behavior: If a dog gets the food reward despite being chompy, they learn that grabbing hard works.<h3>Final Tips for Success</h3>•Be Patient: Training takes time, and consistency is key.•Practice Often: Short, frequent sessions will help your dog learn faster.•Adjust as Needed: If one method isn’t working, try another. Every dog is different, and what works for one may not work for another.With these tips, you can help your dog learn to take food rewards gently—and protect your fingers in the process!<h3>Explore our training resources for practical, step-by-step support.</h3> 👉 Grab a copy of my <a data-mce-href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1819149768/dog-training-games-building-food-drive?etsrc=sdt" href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1819149768/dog-training-games-building-food-drive?etsrc=sdt">Building Food Motivation PDF</a> on Etsy to start building your dog’s engagement and focus.👉 Dive into our <a data-mce-href="https://trainingdogsonline.mykajabi.com/offers/hZqAB4c7/checkout?coupon_code=HOLIDAYPROMO" href="https://trainingdogsonline.mykajabi.com/offers/hZqAB4c7/checkout?coupon_code=HOLIDAYPROMO">Online Course at Training Dogs Online,</a> where we walk you step by step through proven training strategies for real-life success.👉 Curious about who we are? <a data-mce-href="https://trainingdogsonline.ca/about-training-dogs-online" href="https://trainingdogsonline.ca/about-training-dogs-online">Learn more about us,</a> our philosophy, and why we’re passionate about helping dogs and their owners thrive.-Cher Wood

Chomp! Chomp! Tips for Dogs Who Are Too Enthusiastic About Food Rewards

<h2>Let’s Talk About What Dogs Really Need</h2>If you’ve spent any time in the dog training world, you’ve probably come across the idea that positive-only training is the “right” way to train dogs. It’s an appealing idea, isn’t it? A training approach that relies exclusively on rewards, without ever needing to say “no” or use corrections.But here’s the thing: the belief that positive-only training is the only ethical option oversimplifies what it means to communicate with a dog. It assumes that corrections are inherently harsh or harmful when, in reality, balanced training isn’t about being cruel—it’s about providing clarity and structure in a way that’s fair and respectful to the individual dog.Let’s break this down, because this conversation deserves more nuance than the “good vs. bad” narrative often allows.<figure id="figure-e3kgngtgem5qwn82n"><img id="e3kgngtgem5qwn82n" src="https://cdn.durable.co/covers/3bqMHKCOcgNs68O32cAHj7gjEI9V7WCYuWjV3PgJKmMwRWVyXXlFIlQIN9sNAsAg.png" alt="Dog eating biscuit" title="Dog eating biscuit" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 3/2; object-position: undefined% 30%;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="3:2" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined%" data-positiony="30%" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://cdn.durable.co/covers/3bqMHKCOcgNs68O32cAHj7gjEI9V7WCYuWjV3PgJKmMwRWVyXXlFIlQIN9sNAsAg.png" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 3/2; object-position: undefined% 30%;"></figure><h3> What Is Balanced Training?</h3>Balanced training combines both positive reinforcement (rewards for desired behaviors) and corrections (to discourage unwanted behaviors). It’s not about being punitive or harsh; it’s about creating a complete communication system that dogs can understand.Here’s why this matters:•Dogs don’t speak human. They rely on us to teach them what we want and what we don’t want in a way that’s clear and consistent.•Corrections don’t mean punishment. A correction is simply feedback—information that helps a dog understand that a particular behavior isn’t desirable. It can be as simple as a verbal “uh-uh” or a gentle leash prompt.Balanced training isn’t about dominance or force; it’s about meeting a dog where they are, understanding their needs, and using the tools and techniques that make the most sense for that individual.<h3> Why Positive-Only Falls Short for Some Dogs</h3>Positive reinforcement is an amazing tool. It’s scientifically proven to be effective and helps create a dog who’s eager to learn. But is it enough on its own? For some dogs, the answer is no.Here’s why:1.Some Behaviors Are Self-RewardingBehaviors like chasing squirrels, jumping on guests, or counter-surfing can be incredibly rewarding for dogs all on their own. No amount of treats may outweigh the thrill of those behaviors. In these cases, a well-timed correction can provide clarity and interrupt the behavior, making it easier for the dog to learn what’s expected.2.Not Every Dog Finds Rewards Motivating in All SituationsWhile most dogs respond well to food or toys, there are times when their excitement, fear, or natural instincts override their interest in rewards. A dog in full prey-drive, for example, might not care about the treat in your hand. Balanced training provides additional tools to reach dogs in those moments.3.Dogs Need BoundariesJust like kids, dogs thrive with clear boundaries. Teaching a dog what behaviors are unacceptable is just as important as teaching them what behaviors are rewarded. Balanced training provides a complete picture, helping dogs understand both sides of the equation.<h3> Corrections: Clarity, Not Cruelty</h3>Let’s address the elephant in the room: corrections. They often get a bad rap as being harsh, but when used correctly, they’re anything but.Here’s what a correction isn’t:•It’s not yelling, hitting, or instilling fear.•It’s not meant to intimidate or dominate the dog.Here’s what a correction is:•Clear Communication: A way to tell your dog, “Hey, that’s not what I want.”•Fair and Proportionate: A correction should match the behavior and the dog’s temperament. For some dogs, a verbal “uh-uh” is enough. For others, a gentle leash prompt might be more effective.•A Learning Opportunity: Corrections are a way to interrupt unwanted behaviors and create space for the dog to make a better choice.When delivered calmly and fairly, corrections are no more harmful than telling a child “no” when they’re about to touch a hot stove.<figure id="figure-ez7bjxl4wkm5qwm5qq"><img id="ez7bjxl4wkm5qwm5qq" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/968878982/photo/youre-such-a-good-boy.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=Nql8Hk-zTUSa14dmu8PXUuK_ijJDFkVmeRhvscRBJaM=" alt="You're such a good boy!" title="You're such a good boy!" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/968878982/photo/youre-such-a-good-boy.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=Nql8Hk-zTUSa14dmu8PXUuK_ijJDFkVmeRhvscRBJaM=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"></figure><h3> Why Clarity and Structure Are Ethical</h3>Ethics in dog training are often framed as avoiding harm, but what about avoiding confusion? Dogs don’t come into our world knowing our rules. They don’t instinctively understand that jumping on the couch is unacceptable or that bolting out the front door is dangerous.Clarity is kind. When we provide dogs with clear, consistent boundaries—paired with plenty of positive reinforcement for the right behaviors—we set them up for success.Balanced training is about offering dogs the structure they need to navigate the human world with confidence. It’s not about punishment; it’s about teaching, guiding, and giving dogs the tools to make good choices.<h3>The Ethics of Positive-Only Training</h3>Now, let’s flip the script for a moment. Positive-only training isn’t unethical, but it can fall short in some cases. Refusing to use corrections when a dog clearly needs them isn’t always the kindest or safest choice.Imagine a dog that resource-guards food. Positive-only training might focus on desensitizing the dog and rewarding calm behavior around their food bowl—and that’s a great start. But what happens if the dog escalates and lunges? A well-timed correction can interrupt the behavior, keeping everyone safe and giving the trainer an opportunity to reset and try again.Ethics aren’t just about avoiding discomfort—they’re about doing what’s best for the dog in front of you. Sometimes, that means using corrections to provide clarity and safety.<h3> Final Thoughts: A Call for Nuance</h3>The debate over positive-only vs. balanced training is often framed as black and white, but the reality is far more nuanced. Dogs are individuals. They deserve training that meets their unique needs, provides clear communication, and helps them succeed in the human world.Positive reinforcement is a powerful tool, but it’s not the only tool. Balanced training isn’t about being harsh—it’s about being fair, clear, and compassionate.Let’s stop focusing on labels and start focusing on what truly matters: helping dogs and their owners live happier, more harmonious lives. Because at the end of the day, isn’t that what ethical training is all about?What’s your take on this debate? Let’s keep the conversation going—I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Is Positive-Only Training the Only Ethical Option?

Man feeds chewable tablet to fleas and ticks to his pet. An oral veterinary drug is placed by hand into the open mouth Rottweiler. Large black dog sits on the floor of a living room. Selective focus

<h3>Let’s Debunk This Myth Once and for All</h3>If you’ve ever hesitated to use food rewards in training because you’re worried you’ll be stuck carrying treats for the rest of your dog’s life, you’re not alone. This myth has been making the rounds for ages, and it’s time to set the record straight. Here’s the truth: food rewards aren’t forever, but they’re essential in the beginning. When used strategically, they help teach your dog what you want, and over time, you can phase them out without sacrificing your dog’s enthusiasm or reliability. Let’s break it down and talk about how food rewards work, why they’re so effective, and how you can move beyond them when the time is right.<h3>Why Food Rewards Work (and Why Kibble Comes First)</h3>Dogs don’t work for free. Just like you wouldn’t go to your job without a paycheck, dogs need something they value to motivate them to learn new behaviors. For most dogs, food is the gold standard. But here’s where I like to flip the script: I start with kibble.Why? Because kibble is your dog’s regular meal—it’s familiar, it’s available, and it’s sustainable. Starting with kibble builds food motivation without the need for high-value rewards right off the bat. It teaches your dog that working with you is rewarding, even for “ordinary” food.When your dog is eager to work for kibble, you’ve already built a strong foundation. From there, you can sprinkle in occasional high-value food rewards (think chicken or cheese) to up the ante during harder training sessions.<figure id="figure-vnpadi9w2m5qwbtav"><img id="vnpadi9w2m5qwbtav" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1854485328/photo/loyal-friend.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=irrX-viiHWWO9hu1AGEeUyC6paZpQ2DDrzA3yRCcOC8=" alt="Loyal friend." title="Loyal friend." class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1854485328/photo/loyal-friend.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=irrX-viiHWWO9hu1AGEeUyC6paZpQ2DDrzA3yRCcOC8=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"></figure><h3> The Role of Food Rewards in Training</h3> Food rewards are a tool. In the beginning, they’re essential for teaching your dog new behaviors because they:1.Clearly Mark Success: Your dog knows exactly what earned the reward.2.Create Positive Associations: Training becomes fun and rewarding.3.Build Reliable Behaviors: The more your dog practices with food rewards, the stronger their understanding becomes. But here’s the kicker: food rewards are just the beginning. <h3>Phasing Out Food Rewards (Without Losing Reliability)</h3>Once your dog has learned a behavior and performs it reliably, you can start to fade out food rewards. The key is doing this gradually and strategically. Here’s how:1. Switch to Variable ReinforcementInstead of rewarding every single correct response, start rewarding intermittently. Think of it like a slot machine—your dog doesn’t know when the reward is coming, so they keep “playing the game” because the possibility of a reward keeps them motivated.•Example: If you’re practicing “sit,” reward every other sit, then every third sit, and so on. Mix it up to keep it unpredictable.2. Use Life RewardsNot every reward has to be food! Once your dog understands a behavior, you can replace food with other rewards they value, like:•A favorite toy.•Playtime with you.•Going outside for a walk.•Getting to greet a friend or explore something interesting. 3. Practice Without Rewards in Low-Distraction EnvironmentsAs your dog becomes more reliable, start practicing in situations where the behavior is easy for them and reward less frequently. This builds confidence without relying on food for every success.4. Keep Rewards in the Mix for Big WinsEven after phasing out food for most situations, it’s a good idea to occasionally surprise your dog with a treat for extra effort. This keeps them engaged and reinforces that working with you is always worth it.<h3> Why Food Motivation Matters (and Why It’s Not “Bribery”)</h3> One of the biggest misconceptions about food rewards is that they’re a form of bribery. Let me be clear: there’s a big difference between a bribe and a reward.•A bribe is something you offer before a behavior to coax your dog into doing it (e.g., waving a treat in front of their nose to get them to sit).•A reward comes after the behavior—it’s a thank-you for a job well done.Food motivation isn’t about bribery; it’s about creating a dog who’s eager to learn and engage with you. Starting with kibble helps build that eagerness in a sustainable way, and phasing out food rewards ensures your dog works for more than just treats—they work because they’ve learned that training is fun and rewarding in itself.<figure id="figure-abtk4pc3mtm5qwdjpu"><img id="abtk4pc3mtm5qwdjpu" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/2163335890/photo/offering-a-treat-to-a-dog-dog-treat-cookie-for-a-black-dog-chihuahua-dog-care-concept-high.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=uy11I9_8lHmIyzioBSDYmzSKWQbvpl336GFgvIyDWhI=" alt="Offering a treat to a dog. Dog treat cookie for a black dog Chihuahua. dog care concept. High-quality photo" title="Offering a treat to a dog. Dog treat cookie for a black dog Chihuahua. dog care concept. High-quality photo" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/2163335890/photo/offering-a-treat-to-a-dog-dog-treat-cookie-for-a-black-dog-chihuahua-dog-care-concept-high.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=uy11I9_8lHmIyzioBSDYmzSKWQbvpl336GFgvIyDWhI=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"></figure><h3> Final Thoughts: Why This Myth Needs to Go</h3> The idea that food rewards mean you’ll always need treats in your pocket couldn’t be further from the truth. Food is a teaching tool, not a crutch. When used strategically, it helps your dog understand what you want, builds reliable behaviors, and creates a positive training experience.And remember: food rewards aren’t forever, but the enthusiasm and confidence they build are.So, the next time someone says, “But I don’t want to have to carry treats forever,” you can confidently tell them: you won’t—but you’ll want to start with them if you want to succeed. What do you think? Have you struggled with this myth? Let’s keep the conversation going—I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Using Food Rewards Means You’ll Always Need Treats in Your Pocket

Obedience training. Man training his vizsla puppy the Sit Command using treats.

<h3>Why Education Matters More Than Restrictions</h3>Dog training tools spark a lot of heated conversations. You’ve likely heard the argument: “This tool is bad because it causes pain or discomfort.” It sounds straightforward, doesn’t it? If something hurts a dog, why use it? But here’s the thing: pain and discomfort aren’t universal experiences.What one dog finds uncomfortable or stressful might not even register for another. And this isn’t just a minor technicality—it’s the core of why blanket bans on training tools don’t hold water.Let’s dig deeper, because understanding this nuance could completely shift the way we think about tools, training, and what’s best for dogs.<figure id="figure-xec4p4z92om5qstazy"><img id="xec4p4z92om5qstazy" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1279391402/photo/prong-training-collar.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=Yof9LkMDmpHKZmrGeFHe34OnK8SFzSVsolCa4ojYgzc=" alt="Prong Training Collar" title="Prong Training Collar" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1279391402/photo/prong-training-collar.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=Yof9LkMDmpHKZmrGeFHe34OnK8SFzSVsolCa4ojYgzc=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"></figure><h3>Pain and Discomfort: A Personal Experience</h3>Pain and discomfort aren’t universal truths—they’re personal experiences, shaped by the individual dog. What might feel like a slight nudge to one dog could be overwhelming for another. And some dogs may not even notice what other dogs would find uncomfortable. Here’s an example:•A prong collar might apply gentle pressure that one dog perceives as a neutral signal—a cue to ease up on pulling.•Another dog with a lower threshold for discomfort might find the same sensation aversive.•Meanwhile, a “gentle” tool like a no-pull harness could feel incredibly restrictive and frustrating to a dog who’s sensitive to shoulder pressure.It’s not about the tool. It’s about how the individual dog perceives it. This isn’t just a theory—it’s a fact grounded in science and observable behavior. Dogs experience the world differently, just like people do.When we ignore this reality, we risk oversimplifying complex interactions between tools, dogs, and handlers.<h3>Why Blanket Bans Don’t Work</h3>Banning tools based on the assumption that they “cause pain or discomfort” ignores one critical truth: not all dogs experience tools the same way. Here’s why this approach often fails:1.They Ignore Individual Experiences:Pain or discomfort is not dictated by the tool alone but by how the dog perceives it. One-size-fits-all rules disregard the diversity in dogs’ thresholds and sensitivities.2.They Ignore Misuse of All Tools:Any tool can cause discomfort if used poorly. A poorly fitted harness or a head halter used with jerky movements can cause just as much stress as a prong collar in unskilled hands.3.They Remove Valuable Options:Certain tools, when used responsibly, can be life-changing for a dog and their handler. Blanket bans eliminate those options, even when they might be the best fit for a specific situation.4.They Shift the Focus Away from Education:Banning tools doesn’t teach handlers how to train better. It only removes potential solutions without addressing the root problem: lack of knowledge.<figure id="figure-xus12jbjmrm5qsu55c"><img id="xus12jbjmrm5qsu55c" src="https://cdn.durable.co/blocks/16nxxH5v8OpARgAnyYroDtmm2ukFyGV8uWkQbUA1iaXyFfhavoStZ2vjHHrPVFKJ.png" alt="Shot of a young businesswoman trying to stop her two colleagues from fighting in an office" title="Shot of a young businesswoman trying to stop her two colleagues from fighting in an office" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 3/2; object-position: undefined% 55%;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="3:2" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined%" data-positiony="55%" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://cdn.durable.co/blocks/16nxxH5v8OpARgAnyYroDtmm2ukFyGV8uWkQbUA1iaXyFfhavoStZ2vjHHrPVFKJ.png" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 3/2; object-position: undefined% 55%;"></figure><h3>Even “Gentle” Tools Can Be Misused</h3>Tools marketed as “gentle” are not immune to causing discomfort. A head halter that jerks a dog’s head unexpectedly can be just as unpleasant as a collar correction. A restrictive harness can lead to frustration or even physical strain if it’s not properly fitted or used thoughtfully.The difference isn’t in the tool itself—it’s in how it’s used. A skilled handler observes their dog’s responses, adjusts their techniques, and ensures the tool is applied in a way that fosters communication, not stress.Instead of asking, “Is this tool bad?” we should be asking, “Am I using this tool effectively for this dog?”<h3>Shifting the Focus to Education</h3>Training tools are neutral—they’re neither good nor bad on their own. Their effectiveness depends entirely on the knowledge, timing, and technique of the handler.<blockquote>Tools don’t train dogs. People do.</blockquote> Here’s what that education looks like:1.Understanding the Individual Dog:Every dog is different. What motivates this dog? What are their thresholds for stress or discomfort? How do they communicate when something isn’t working?2.Learning Proper Timing and Technique:A tool is only as effective as the handler using it. Proper timing, clear communication, and skilled use of tools ensure the dog understands what’s being asked without unnecessary confusion or stress.3.Prioritizing the Dog’s Well-Being:Training should always prioritize what’s best for the dog in front of you. That means observing their response to a tool and adjusting as needed to create clarity and minimize stress.<h3>The Risk of Oversimplifying</h3>When we fixate on banning tools, we risk losing sight of the bigger picture. Training isn’t about the tool—it’s about understanding, communication, and skill.If we reduce the conversation to “this tool is bad, and that tool is good,” we’re missing an opportunity to have a more meaningful discussion about what dogs need. And we risk alienating dog owners who might feel judged or shamed for their choices, even when they’re trying their best.Instead of banning tools, we should be asking:•Is this tool being used responsibly?•Is the dog’s reaction to it being carefully observed and respected?•Does the handler have the knowledge and skills they need to use it effectively?<figure id="figure-ig8o9rglhcrm5qutrkq"><img id="ig8o9rglhcrm5qutrkq" src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1178373277/photo/portrait-of-a-happy-mongrel-dog-walking-at-meadow-in-winter-in-sunset.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=3eCTvpP70zQB-6KyeLCb6bVeBbwvuwJDiIw4btR3mQU=" alt="Portrait of a happy mongrel dog walking at meadow in winter in sunset" title="Portrait of a happy mongrel dog walking at meadow in winter in sunset" class="object-cover bg-gray-100 rounded-lg md:rounded-xl lg:rounded-2xl" style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;" data-corners="default" data-aspect="16:9" data-caption="" data-positionx="undefined" data-positiony="undefined" data-fullwidth="false" data-mce-src="https://media.gettyimages.com/id/1178373277/photo/portrait-of-a-happy-mongrel-dog-walking-at-meadow-in-winter-in-sunset.jpg?b=1&amp;s=2048x2048&amp;w=0&amp;k=20&amp;c=3eCTvpP70zQB-6KyeLCb6bVeBbwvuwJDiIw4btR3mQU=" data-mce-style="aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-position: center center;"></figure><h3>A Better Way Forward</h3>We can do better. Instead of focusing on banning tools, we can focus on empowering dog owners and trainers with knowledge. Let’s teach people how to use tools thoughtfully, consider the individual dog’s needs, and prioritize training methods that build confidence and clarity.Dogs are individuals, and so are the people training them. What works for one dog may not work for another, and that’s okay. The real goal is to create positive outcomes for both the dog and the handler, using the tools and methods that make the most sense for their unique situation.When we approach training with empathy, understanding, and a commitment to education, we don’t need blanket bans. We just need better conversations—and better tools in skilled hands.So let’s stop oversimplifying and start focusing on what really matters: the individual dog, the education of their handler, and the relationship between them.Because in the end, isn’t that what good training is all about?

The Problem with Banning Dog Training Tools: Why It’s Not That Simple

Training Dogs Online

Training Dogs Online:  Your Dog. Your Pace. Your Place. Virtual dog training courses. 

What Makes This Course Unique?

1. From Commands to Conversations
This course goes beyond obedience by teaching you to use markers like “Good,” “Ah Ah,” and “Break” to build a shared language with your dog. It’s about clear, two-way communication that helps guide your dog through everyday scenarios.

2. Train Anywhere with Ease
With lifetime access to the course through our online app, you can train on the go—whether at home, in the park, or at the café.

3. Get Expert Feedback
Access personalized feedback and guidance from experienced trainers who are here to help you troubleshoot, stay on track, and see real progress.

4. Join Our Community of Over 600 Dog Owners
Connect with fellow dog owners to share stories, ask questions, and celebrate successes in a supportive environment.

5. Practical, Real-Life Application
Learn how to apply training to everyday situations, like walking calmly past other dogs, managing distractions, or settling in busy environments.

What You’ll Learn

	•	The Foundation: Build essential obedience skills that serve as the groundwork for effective communication.
	•	Marker Communication System: Use clear markers like “Break” and “Good” to create structure and clarity in your training.
	•	Real-World Behaviors: Master practical skills for common challenges, such as leash walking and focus in distractions.
	•	Focus and Confidence: Teach your dog to stay calm, make thoughtful decisions, and engage in any setting.
	•	A Confident, Engaged Dog: Turn your dog into a motivated, eager partner who loves working with you.

Why Choose Training Dogs Online?

This course  is designed for dog owners who want real results, practical skills,  in one simple package. It’s not about browsing multiple courses or programs—it’s about learning everything you need in one place to train your dog with confidence.

Whether you’re a first-time owner or tackling behavioral challenges, Training Dogs Online is your step-by-step guide to a better-trained, more confident dog. Learn anytime, anywhere, and achieve real-life results with the only course you’ll ever need.

Blog

7 Recall Tips That Work: Because Yelling ‘Come!’ 20 Times...

Why On-Leash Dog Greetings Are Like Bad Tinder Dates: Awk...

Chomp! Chomp! Tips for Dogs Who Are Too Enthusiastic Abou...

Is Positive-Only Training the Only Ethical Option?

Using Food Rewards Means You’ll Always Need Treats in You...

The Problem with Banning Dog Training Tools: Why It’s Not...